Much written and said about this, but could I find any photo tutorials? No. Also, much of the information is incomplete, leading to confusion on my part when the time came to do it. So here we go.
Haven’t really got hands on with the new Range Rover, was quite happy dismantling stuff on the P38 so was time to get stuck in on the L322 at last and start saving a few pennies at the stealer.
One day, the fans stopped working on Big Bob. All the lights were working, and there was some heat, but nothing blowing. So a quick search on the internet revealed that the final stage resistor (FSR) or fan motor resistor unit was to blame, or at least this was the first best thing to try before it became a case of having the whole inside of the car removed to sort the problem. There were several write ups on the net about how to do it so a trip to eBay found me the required part, and I set to one Friday evening.
You can experience a wide range of symptoms from the FSR going belly up: no fans, fans all the time, battery drain, but the most likely cause of all of these is a dodgy FSR.
This howto is for a UK spec Right Hand Drive car.
The advice from a UK based Land Rover technician on Just Answers was to work on the passenger side of the car, along with what was little info there was on the Rave CD about this repair (must have a US/World version), so I duly removed the centre console closing panel (1 tork screw at the rear and two clips at the front – one now broken!) and the footwell closing panel (below the footwell, should have been 3/4 screws but only two present), disconnected the footwell light to remove. Then it was suggested to remove the plastic air vent that took warm / cool air to the feet. One screw on the left hand side and then some gentle tugging and prising to remove. Then I was to look up into the space I had uncovered. …Nothing, nada, rien. The FSR just wasn’t there. Back to the net, and I finally uncovered a post on rangerovers.net from a UK based owner, the FSR was in the drivers footwell! So it seems that for UK (right hand drive) you head for the drivers footwell (under the steering column), for US/Other (left hand drive) cars you head for the passenger footwell (under the glovebox). So I then proceeded to put everything back on the passenger side. The air vent is a right fiddle to get back into place, and this is when I broke off one of the clips putting the centre console back on! So, half and hour wasted already. Over to the other side of the car.
Here we go for real:
1. Remove the centre console footwell panel, which has one tork screw at the rear and is held in place by two clips at the front.
PHOTO 1 – Centre console panel
2. Remove the footwell closing panel under the steering column, by the pedals. I had three tork screws and a funny clip thing at the back behind the brake pedal.
PHOTO 2 – Footwell closing panel
3. Unclip the footwell light connector and prise out the Parking Distance Control (PDC) speaker clips to save having to undo all the electrical connectors, and put the panel aside.
PHOTO 3 – light and speaker
4. Now look up! In behind the centre console over a funny shaped rubber thing, above the footrest you will see some wires, including a thick brown wire, going into a connector block. This is the end of the FSR.
PHOTO 5/6 getting your bearings
PHOTO 6 – first glimpse
Most instructions recommend removing the air vent at this point, but if you can leave it in place do.
5. Take care with the next stage, removing the FSR. Many have suggested having a good look, and then doing this by touch, so that you can work in a more comfortable position. If you are small or a contortionist, then do it lying on your back!
PHOTO 7 The Connector
a. Squeeze either side of the electrical connector to release the clips, and remove the connector. This took several goes and lots of wiggling and sore fingers.
b. At the bottom of the FSR is another clip, press this down, and gently remove the FSR, taking care to not disturb any wires or other connectors. Try to keep the orientation of the FSR the same on the way out, so that you can make sure the new one goes back in the same way. ( I couldn’t! before you remove the FSR have a feel for the alignment of the connectors inside the connector block)
PHOTOS 8&9 Orientation
6. The new FSR. Now my new one looked like the old one so the original must have packed up sooner, so even the new ones pack up! This looks quite different to the original one, no doubt requiring revision based upon the number of failures experienced by RR & BMW owners of the same part!
7. Making sure you have the orientation right, slip the new FSR into place, ensuring it goes right home and that bottom clip goes click. This is a bit weird, because if you feel for where the old one came out, there doesn’t seem to be a “socket” for it to go into. Gently wiggle and fiddle and it will eventually slot into place. Check the bottom clip is holding it. Refit the electrical connector.
8. Test. Fire up the car, and check that your problem has gone away. I got immediate fans, telling me I had problem solved. If all is good, refit is a reversal of the dismantling. if not, check all your work, fitting, connections etc and try again. If still no go, you have a problem beyond this howto.