Replacing the Final Stage (Blower) Resistor on a L322 Range Rover (MkIII) 2002

Much written and said about this, but could I find any photo tutorials? No. Also, much of the information is incomplete, leading to confusion on my part when the time came to do it. So here we go.

Haven’t really got hands on with the new Range Rover, was quite happy dismantling stuff on the P38 so was time to get stuck in on the L322 at last and start saving a few pennies at the stealer.

One day, the fans stopped working on Big Bob. All the lights were working, and there was some heat, but nothing blowing. So a quick search on the internet revealed that the final stage resistor (FSR) or fan motor resistor unit was to blame, or at least this was the first best thing to try before it became a case of having the whole inside of the car removed to sort the problem. There were several write ups on the net about how to do it so a trip to eBay found me the required part, and I set to one Friday evening.

You can experience a wide range of symptoms from the FSR going belly up: no fans, fans all the time, battery drain, but the most likely cause of all of these is a dodgy FSR.

This howto is for a UK spec Right Hand Drive car.

The advice from a UK based Land Rover technician on Just Answers was to work on the passenger side of the car, along with what was little info there was on the Rave CD about this repair (must have a US/World version), so I duly removed the centre console closing panel (1 tork screw at the rear and two clips at the front – one now broken!) and the footwell closing panel (below the footwell, should have been 3/4 screws but only two present), disconnected the footwell light to remove. Then it was suggested to remove the plastic air vent that took warm / cool air to the feet. One screw on the left hand side and then some gentle tugging and prising to remove. Then I was to look up into the space I had uncovered. …Nothing, nada, rien. The FSR just wasn’t there. Back to the net, and I finally uncovered a post on rangerovers.net from a UK based owner, the FSR was in the drivers footwell! So it seems that for UK (right hand drive) you head for the drivers footwell (under the steering column), for US/Other (left hand drive) cars you head for the passenger footwell (under the glovebox). So I then proceeded to put everything back on the passenger side. The air vent is a right fiddle to get back into place, and this is when I broke off one of the clips putting the centre console back on! So, half and hour wasted already. Over to the other side of the car.

Here we go for real:

1. Remove the centre console footwell panel, which has one tork screw at the rear and is held in place by two clips at the front.

PHOTO 1 – Centre console panel

2. Remove the footwell closing panel under the steering column, by the pedals. I had three tork screws and a funny clip thing at the back behind the brake pedal.

PHOTO 2 – Footwell closing panel

3. Unclip the footwell light connector and prise out the Parking Distance Control (PDC) speaker clips to save having to undo all the electrical connectors, and put the panel aside.

PHOTO 3 – light and speaker

4. Now look up! In behind the centre console over a funny shaped rubber thing, above the footrest you will see some wires, including a thick brown wire, going into a connector block. This is the end of the FSR.

PHOTO 5/6 getting your bearings

PHOTO 6 – first glimpse

Most instructions recommend removing the air vent at this point, but if you can leave it in place do.

5. Take care with the next stage, removing the FSR. Many have suggested having a good look, and then doing this by touch, so that you can work in a more comfortable position. If you are small or a contortionist, then do it lying on your back!

PHOTO 7 The Connector

a. Squeeze either side of the electrical connector to release the clips, and remove the connector. This took several goes and lots of wiggling and sore fingers.

b. At the bottom of the FSR is another clip, press this down, and gently remove the FSR, taking care to not disturb any wires or other connectors. Try to keep the orientation of the FSR the same on the way out, so that you can make sure the new one goes back in the same way. ( I couldn’t! before you remove the FSR have a feel for the alignment of the connectors inside the connector block)

PHOTOS 8&9 Orientation

6. The new FSR. Now my new one looked like the old one so the original must have packed up sooner, so even the new ones pack up! This looks quite different to the original one, no doubt requiring revision based upon the number of failures experienced by RR & BMW owners of the same part!

7. Making sure you have the orientation right, slip the new FSR into place, ensuring it goes right home and that bottom clip goes click. This is a bit weird, because if you feel for where the old one came out, there doesn’t seem to be a “socket” for it to go into. Gently wiggle and fiddle and it will eventually slot into place. Check the bottom clip is holding it. Refit the electrical connector.

8. Test. Fire up the car, and check that your problem has gone away. I got immediate fans, telling me I had problem solved. If all is good, refit is a reversal of the dismantling. if not, check all your work, fitting, connections etc and try again. If still no go, you have a problem beyond this howto.

59 thoughts on “Replacing the Final Stage (Blower) Resistor on a L322 Range Rover (MkIII) 2002

  1. It is highly possible that the wattage of this resistor has been deliberately under-rated by LR to produce a time-related fault. I haven’t actually seen the resistor but it would make sense to increase the wattage which would prevent burn-out. I am presuming that this is a a resistor and not a thermistor. All my experience is on classics and P38’s but I am a professional electronics engineer and what I have see so fat in Range Rover electronics leaves a lot to be desired in poor quality or bad design.

  2. TRY BEFORE YOU BUY – Ok, Got the part and printed out your instructions. Removed the side panel, the push clips come away in the same direction as the tork screw, towards the door. Removed the under panel FOUR tork screws and the rear plastic clip, which unscrews with a cross head screwdriver. Did not bother to removed anything from the panel, just worked it under the pedals out of the way. Quick glance at the instructions and then felt for the unit at the back. The connector did not want to come away from the unit so had a brainwave and waggled the connector before firmly pushing the unit in place. Turned the key and the fans fired straight up!!! Replaced the panels, job done in under 10mins no parts required. Thanks for your instructions and help, turned out to be nothing more than a loose or poor connection. (L322 2002 Petrol Vogue 80k miles)

  3. Thanks for your post. I confirm that for LHD RR MK3 petrol 2003 the F.S.R is in the passenger footwell. I order it to LR for 50 € in France (ref: JGO 000021). It takes about 45 min to fix it.
    Cheers.

  4. These instructions have been a fantastic help. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to publish them.

    Anyone else who has had to replace the FSR due to battery drain problems may also want to replace the HEVAC harness. Pt no. YNI500040K

    This harness includes a new relay which is sited on the underside of the footwell closing panel.

    To replace the cable harness it is necessary to remove both the passenger and drivers side centre console footwell panels, using the method described above, and then prise out the upper and lower control dials from the centre console. Thats the ones with the clock, height control and blower direction controls.

    Replacement is a simple matter of checking where the old cable harness connects to and just replacing it. It’s best to thread the new cable upwards through the centre console from the drivers side footwell, assuming a RHD vehicle.

    There are a couple of other connections to be made to the parking beeper unit, at least that’s what I think it is, on the underside of the footwell closing panel.

    This job takes around 15 mins even for a complete novice like myself.

    The reason I post these instructions here is because when I purchased the replacement harness from Guy Salmon Portsmouth I asked them if they could tell me where on the vehicle it actually goes. The reply I got was “We are not allowed to tell you that, but you may like to contact Land Rover and they may tell or SELL you the information”. UNBELIEVABLE!! To be honest I was gob-smacked that although they knew they wouldn’t tell me, they wouldn’t even point in the general direction.

    Considering the fact that this harness has to be replaced because the original one is basically not fit for purpose I would have thought the least they could do would be to tell you where it goes. A simple sheet of A4 with a few instructions and a diagram would go a long way to improve customer relations with issues like these.

    Rant over. Hope you find the above useful?

    • Before you do any of this work. I had precisely the same problem lights on but only very slight heat and NO FAN working. Met someone who had similar problem. He said. ” give the pannel close to your foot rest a few good thumps before you start buying parts and dismantling the panels. So I did. And guess what !! All worked perfectly. Can’t guarantee it will work for everyone but there might just be a small ‘ connection problem. Causing your problem. Good luck. And. Try several times befor you give up on my advice. I had to thump the panels several times before it jogged the bad connection into place… It seems that several others have also had success… Ray

  5. My old girl L322 2003 was playing up no blower or heat only lights on switch and flat battery every morning!!!, I orded up a “fsr” and i followed your steps/pictures 30 mins later full heat and blower working again thank you saved me loads of money and lost time with them messers which we call range rover dealers.. got my fsr from:
    WELLINGTON AUTO PARTS RANGE ROVER SPECIALIST, KPC HOUSE, CANTERBURY ROAD, SOUTH WILLESBOROUGH, ASHFORD KENT, TN24 OBP tel: 07770806040 Cheap as chips, keith got me a oem Range rover “fsr” item on next day delivery.. Thanks again from Danny Essex Range Rover 4.4 PETROL L322 2003 :o)

  6. Wow fantastic, bought the FSR (45euro) followed the instructions to a tee and now all fans are working. Be patient as it very sore on the fingers and neck as very awkward to fit, persevere and you will get there.
    PS if you can’t get the old FSR out and decide just to connect the new one to the connector it will only work for a few minutes as will over heat.
    The FSR must go back in to its original specially cooled chamber to work correctly. Use the hole on the top right of the FSR with guide to insert. Push it in place till you hear a reassuring click, reconnect the electrical connector and you should be back in business , it also help to remove the piece of dash from the center console that runs from the floor up to the aircon button this helped a lot.
    Great post and saved me a tonne on money.
    money.

  7. Thanks very much for the Instructions, they were spot on..for sure!!

    However after about 10-15 mins the device overheats and this causes my Blowers to run at full tilt…has anyone else experienced this issue…?

    I will try replacing the Cabin Air Filter to see if that helps, but I think that this part is just not upto RR spec and I will need to return it, and get one from the RR dealer. any suggestions..?

    • Note my advice… Before you start pulling your panels off and buying parts. Try a little trick that I was recently shown.

      Thump the pannel that sits beside your foot rest. (Just To the left of your pedals. ( on a right hand RR ). There is often a bad connection with this part due to bumpy roads. A few hard thumps with your fist can often cure the bad connection… If it goes wrong again just thump the pannel. It may save you plenty of trouble and money. It’s worth a try It worked for me perfectly …

  8. @ RoverLover_Cali

    I have not had such problems but blowers do seem to be playing up a bit when using the air con over the summer – on then off, then blowing just a bit. I had the air con regassed then couldn ‘t test it as the blowers just wouldn’t come on! I’ll have to see how they behave once it gets a bit colder outside.

  9. Just had to fit another FSR. The broken unit was loose in its mounting when I went to remove it, so this may have caused the overheat/failure. Worht checking occasionally that it is still seated correctly. (Clip broken?)

  10. I’m off on a caravan trip to the Ardenne in a couple of days and wasn’t happy when the fan packed up. My local LR repair shop offered to check it with their diagnostics but could only tell me there was no power getting to the relay so I was delighted to find your site. No time to get a new FSR but I thought I’d have a look anyway and as it turned out, just pulling the plug out slightly got it going for now so obviously a poor connection that’ll need further attention when I get back. Many thanks.

  11. I have just replaced the heater blower resistor as my fan was constantly blowing even when the ignition was off and the key removed – thus leaving me with a flat battery.

    The part cost me £ 41.68 from Pentland Land Roved in Edinburgh. The part number on the invoice is “LGJ0000021” and the description is “520903 switch – heat”.

    This guide is very good. It isn’t a difficult job, but it is VERY fiddly. It took me 45 minuted from start to finish.

  12. I just replaced the FSR on my 2004 RR and wanted to say thank you for the instructions. They have obviously saved everyone here (including myself) a lot of money.

  13. I have had a battery drain problem for a while, probably since i bought the vehicle second hand.

    I had my local garage try and fix it, the local Land Rover specialist had a go, then i had an ex-Land rover distinguished engineer come and install a relay switch behind the dash. Still no joy.
    I replaced the ‘hedgehog’ over xmas using your great instructions here. It was very fiddly, i found using my camera phone to video the area behind the pedals helped a lot, because you do have to rely on touch to replace the part.
    But two days later – flat battery again!

    It is because my battery may be shot from at least a dozen re-charges and jump starts? – this is my third new battery in 3 years. I have heard some people say that you cant re-charge batteries too often, or jump start them as it damages them.

  14. @ Kevin

    Sounds like a right pita!

    You don’t say how old your FFRR is, newer models do have battery drain issues and needed new firmware to tell the car to shut down properly.

    What battery are you putting in?

    Best suggestion is to point you to fullfatrr.com/forum lots of helpful folks who may have had the same problem and solved it.

  15. Hi

    Thanks so much for these instructions. Worded perfectly with spot on pictures. Only problem I had was seeing past the air vent plastic bit. Couldn’t really see what I was doing with my eyes but kept using video camera with flash on my iPhone! Only concern I have now is that the FSR is in place but it’s just shy of getting that “reassuring click”! Do you think this will be ok? It’s firmly in place and won’t be moving anywhere. The FSR I fitted was nothing like the one I took out which was a big metal looking part so I’m wondering if it’s just because it’s not exactly the same that it’s not fitting in as perfect with the final “click”. I’ve just took it out for a spin for half an hour and all seems fine.
    Anyways thanks again, you’ve made another L322 owner very happy!

    2003 53 L322 2.9 RHD

  16. @ Scott, you’ll know it is in place if you can’t easily pull it out again. I didn’t get it right when I first replaced my FSR, resulting in the same no fans problem a short while later. It is worth re-checking your work. I agree it is a fiddle. You may have more luck if you remove the air vent, just know its an extra fiddle to get back in the right place.

  17. I’ve put it all back together again now. I can take it apart again to try and secure it with the click though. If I don’t is there any chance the new FSR will become damaged?

  18. Hi Scott, can’t say for certain whether the FSR will be damaged if it doesn’t fit correctly, but there must be a reason for it to slot and click into place as a snug fit. As previously mentioned, worth checking again.

  19. Checking in from California. 2003 which I bought new and after about 90k miles this little devil went south — and would like to report what I took out was, obviously, the original version. LHD so a bit more annoying, but done. Thanks

  20. One more thought: for those trying this for the first time (all of us?) you’ll notice a little hook-like device at the top rear of the unit. Of course, this is a “tensioner” designed to help keep the unit snug. But this also means you are pushing against it when you try to “snap” the unit back into its bracket. In the end I had to carefully put a flat blade screw driver against the bottom of the unit to get enough push to overcome that little “tensioner”. You can tell when it’s properly in place by looking at the two little holes that fit over pegs. Once in place they will be seated over the pegs. And, for anyone else with LHD, here’s a decent link for getting in: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=343:mkiii-how-to-replace-final-stage-resistor&catid=54:mkiii-repair-videos&Itemid=78

  21. Hi guys, thanks for the fitting tips worked treat except now when i turn the 2004 rr vouge se off the fans seem to wake up every few minutes for few seconds even when the key is removed from the ignition, anyone any thoughts or come across this, any help would be great.

  22. Check the new FSR is fitted correctly, also check this is not a dud or that it has not already blown. (did it work OK initially and then start causing problems?)

  23. You are a lifesaver. Have had intermittent problems with the blower for some time, but thought I could live with it. Then the fans decided to remain on even after the ignition had been turned off, which quickly leads to a flat battery. Followed your instructions, which are excellent, and now all seems to be happy in the world of aircon. Many thanks.

  24. Awesome, just done mine in 35 minutes, no need to remove air vent. The hardest part was disconnecting the connector, had to have a tin of spinach.
    Thank you.

    • Did you give the pannel a couple of thumps with your fist first ? Usually works Bad connection caused by rough terrain and bumpy roads causes a slight connection problem. It worked for me saved a lot of unnecessary bother. Thump the pannel just to the left of your foot pedal rest a few times Have the ignition switched on so that you can listen. Turn the heater on full and thump away Keep trying. Don’t give up first attempt. I have two people who had 100 % success…. After a couple of hard thumps… Ray…….

      • Thanks Raymond for the perseverance! A good thump may well do the trick, but it is worth checking that the electrical connections are OK and that the FSR is properly seated

  25. Our 2002 4.4 HSE has just developed the same problem, discovered this blog, called my local LR Specialist Adventure-4×4 in Leeds querying the FSR and Chris new exactly what I was on about referring to the ‘Hedgehog’ unit.
    He’s ordered one in and its booked into tomorrow as I have bottled doing it myself purely based on the overheating issues if you don’t get it quite right.
    Fingers crossed it solves the problem.
    Thanks for the hard work in detailing the solution.

  26. Thanks a million for this guide – worked a charm.

    A couple of things – my 54 plate range rover had intermittent face blowers – it was always a gamble whether or not they’d come on. The footwell blowers would work every time but the face blowers rarely. When they did work it tended to be all or nothing as well. Changing this part worked perfectly for me – seems to be completely fixed in that it works every time and also moderates the blow responsively

    The other thing is I found it OK to fit it kneeling next to the car using my right hand – I tried upside down but there was really no need. It was a fiddle to get in but once I realised the triangular pins had to go into a triangular hole it helped me to locate it

    Again – thanks a million – it once again makes our car a joy to drive

    • Glad to be of help, as you can see I get plenty of practice doing this, so like you can now do it with eyes closed 😉

  27. Thanks so much for the guide, almost backed out early on but bit the bullet and ended up proud of myself, thanks to you. god bless ya.

  28. Many thanks for the instructions. Using a camera phone is also a great help as some others have noted. Only downside is that having replaced the part the blower still doesn’t work. Fuses look fine so I’m a bit stumped now. May have to take to the shop unless anyone has any other ideas.

    • Only thing I can advise is to recheck your work, ensure the FSR is properly seated, and the electrical connector is in place.

      What were your symptoms no fan or fan all the time? If no fan could be the blower motor has packed up?

      Check in / join up at fullfatrr.com and search for FSR, lots of extra info there.

      • Sorry just came across your reply.

        So the original symptom was no fans at any time. After my replacement of the FSR did not cure the problem I took it to Land Rover dealer who diagnosed a duff blower/heater unit. The problem being that on my model (2004 3.0 td6) apparently the whole dash has to come out to replace it and he quoted 13 hours of labour. So I thought I’d ignore the lack of fans until one day about a month later – they start working again !! However, they are now on constantly even with the ignition key out – sounds familiar. So I’ll do some more fettling over the next day or so and report back.

        • May be the FSR again, if not properly seated it will just overheat and go phutt!

          Also, working doing some searching on fullfatrr.com, a good thread there by someone who was able to replace blower motor without completely dismantling the dash, just a bit of trimming of black plastic to allow the old motor out and the new motor in.

          • So I put the original FSR back and hey presto we’re in business. So now will get the AC re-gassed and we should be all set for the summer but I expect we haven’t heard the last of this ….. Thanks for all the info.

  29. Thanks, have a L322 and the interior fan remains on after the ignition is off, will the problem be solved after replacing the FSr ?

  30. HI I’M FROM ITALY AND MY AIRCONDITION BLOWS PERFECTLY IN THE BACK(PASSENGERS) BUT DOESN’T BLOW IN THE FRONT.sAME ISSUE???
    THANK YOU

  31. I have just had the same problem. blower worked fine in the rear but only lights in the front with no air blowing.
    Following some of the advice on this thread, I decided the give it a few bangs was the first option. IT WORKED!! All working as it should now.
    Thanks guys!
    What a fantastic forum!

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